MARTIN TAILORS
The Pinnacle of Sartorial Elegance
Our one-to-one personal care, combined with dedicated craftsmanship, is the rock upon which the Martin Tailors reputation was built. It remains the hallmark of the company today. Every garment is Ultra Bespoke, individually designed, hand cut and hand tailored to the highest standard attainable.
Fabrics
Birdseye

Birdseye (Bird’s Eye or Birds-Eye) is an allover woven suiting made from a small geometric pattern with a dot suggesting a bird’s eye. The fancy-solid suiting fabric is a favorite of bespoke tailors and their more stylish patrons.
It is a formal worsted, occasionally enlivened by ton-sur-ton checks, more adapted to complete suits. It is not dissimilar to sharkskin, but with the difference of being lighter, which makes it a good choice for spring or autumn, but it can also be worn in winter. Others say that due to the light weight and absorbing texture, it is actually a great summer suiting fabric. In spite of a discreet colour palette, the rigorous aspect, serious and orderly, makes birdseye a demanding textile, more suitable for professional situations, whilst sharkskin and its variations simply segue between different occasions.
A sample of a blue and grey birds eye weave most commonly used for suits.
THE TECHNIQUE
Birdseye fabric is a fabric woven with a pattern of small diamonds, each having a dot in the center. Genuine birdseye weave foresees that the warp and the weft alternate two light and two dark yarns which cross each other to form a grid filled with little round dots. The intention is to suggest the look of partridge eyes.
A fun fact is that birdseye is also called “diaper cloth” and it is used for that purpose. When you search for birdseye fabric, it is possible you end up in the section of all kinds of websites that offer organic unbleached birdseye cotton ‘eco-friendly’ diaper cloths.
THE EFFECT
Look closely, in the pictures underneath this text, and you’ll see that the suit is made up of two colors, a dark blue base covered with lighter blue birdseye circles. The two begin to blend visually as you step back, but the pattern gives the suit a depth that a typical solid will never achieve.
Birdseye

Birdseye (Bird’s Eye or Birds-Eye) is an allover woven suiting made from a small geometric pattern with a dot suggesting a bird’s eye. The fancy-solid suiting fabric is a favorite of bespoke tailors and their more stylish patrons.
It is a formal worsted, occasionally enlivened by ton-sur-ton checks, more adapted to complete suits. It is not dissimilar to sharkskin, but with the difference of being lighter, which makes it a good choice for spring or autumn, but it can also be worn in winter. Others say that due to the light weight and absorbing texture, it is actually a great summer suiting fabric. In spite of a discreet colour palette, the rigorous aspect, serious and orderly, makes birdseye a demanding textile, more suitable for professional situations, whilst sharkskin and its variations simply segue between different occasions.
A sample of a blue and grey birds eye weave most commonly used for suits.
THE TECHNIQUE
Birdseye fabric is a fabric woven with a pattern of small diamonds, each having a dot in the center. Genuine birdseye weave foresees that the warp and the weft alternate two light and two dark yarns which cross each other to form a grid filled with little round dots. The intention is to suggest the look of partridge eyes.
A fun fact is that birdseye is also called “diaper cloth” and it is used for that purpose. When you search for birdseye fabric, it is possible you end up in the section of all kinds of websites that offer organic unbleached birdseye cotton ‘eco-friendly’ diaper cloths.
THE EFFECT
Look closely, in the pictures underneath this text, and you’ll see that the suit is made up of two colors, a dark blue base covered with lighter blue birdseye circles. The two begin to blend visually as you step back, but the pattern gives the suit a depth that a typical solid will never achieve.
Birdseye

Birdseye (Bird’s Eye or Birds-Eye) is an allover woven suiting made from a small geometric pattern with a dot suggesting a bird’s eye. The fancy-solid suiting fabric is a favorite of bespoke tailors and their more stylish patrons.
It is a formal worsted, occasionally enlivened by ton-sur-ton checks, more adapted to complete suits. It is not dissimilar to sharkskin, but with the difference of being lighter, which makes it a good choice for spring or autumn, but it can also be worn in winter. Others say that due to the light weight and absorbing texture, it is actually a great summer suiting fabric. In spite of a discreet colour palette, the rigorous aspect, serious and orderly, makes birdseye a demanding textile, more suitable for professional situations, whilst sharkskin and its variations simply segue between different occasions.
A sample of a blue and grey birds eye weave most commonly used for suits.
THE TECHNIQUE
Birdseye fabric is a fabric woven with a pattern of small diamonds, each having a dot in the center. Genuine birdseye weave foresees that the warp and the weft alternate two light and two dark yarns which cross each other to form a grid filled with little round dots. The intention is to suggest the look of partridge eyes.
A fun fact is that birdseye is also called “diaper cloth” and it is used for that purpose. When you search for birdseye fabric, it is possible you end up in the section of all kinds of websites that offer organic unbleached birdseye cotton ‘eco-friendly’ diaper cloths.
THE EFFECT
Look closely, in the pictures underneath this text, and you’ll see that the suit is made up of two colors, a dark blue base covered with lighter blue birdseye circles. The two begin to blend visually as you step back, but the pattern gives the suit a depth that a typical solid will never achieve.
Birdseye

Birdseye (Bird’s Eye or Birds-Eye) is an allover woven suiting made from a small geometric pattern with a dot suggesting a bird’s eye. The fancy-solid suiting fabric is a favorite of bespoke tailors and their more stylish patrons.
It is a formal worsted, occasionally enlivened by ton-sur-ton checks, more adapted to complete suits. It is not dissimilar to sharkskin, but with the difference of being lighter, which makes it a good choice for spring or autumn, but it can also be worn in winter. Others say that due to the light weight and absorbing texture, it is actually a great summer suiting fabric. In spite of a discreet colour palette, the rigorous aspect, serious and orderly, makes birdseye a demanding textile, more suitable for professional situations, whilst sharkskin and its variations simply segue between different occasions.
A sample of a blue and grey birds eye weave most commonly used for suits.
THE TECHNIQUE
Birdseye fabric is a fabric woven with a pattern of small diamonds, each having a dot in the center. Genuine birdseye weave foresees that the warp and the weft alternate two light and two dark yarns which cross each other to form a grid filled with little round dots. The intention is to suggest the look of partridge eyes.
A fun fact is that birdseye is also called “diaper cloth” and it is used for that purpose. When you search for birdseye fabric, it is possible you end up in the section of all kinds of websites that offer organic unbleached birdseye cotton ‘eco-friendly’ diaper cloths.
THE EFFECT
Look closely, in the pictures underneath this text, and you’ll see that the suit is made up of two colors, a dark blue base covered with lighter blue birdseye circles. The two begin to blend visually as you step back, but the pattern gives the suit a depth that a typical solid will never achieve.
Martin Tailors Tailoring
From the choice of cloth through to such details as the number and positioning of pockets and the shape of lapel, the customer has the freedom to design the suit or garment which will meet his or her needs.
This responsiveness to the client’s requirements coupled with the benefit of our experience produces optimum results. For us, there is a big distinction between “good” and “perfect”. It is of paramount importance that we are entirely happy with the end product and the customer is confident in his, or her, sartorial presentation.
It is not just the perfect fitting of cloth to the body which is the hallmark of Martin Tailors- it is that indefinable element of style. Every suit is individually designed, hand cut and hand tailored to the highest standard attainable.
To achieve our level of perfection every customer experiences a two stage measurement and physique assessment process – which goes a long way in determining certain factors during the transition from cloth to suit.
Your suits and garments are created from the finest cloths in the world, 80% of which are British. Select from an extensive range of cloths suitable for all occasions; different colouring, patterns and weights, all woven from natural fibres including Australian super-fine wool, cashmere, mohair, silk and lambs-wool.
Having ascertained the use of the suit, style features and the best cloth, measurements are taken and figuration recorded.
A master pattern is then constructed. Only after this stage has been satisfactorily reached does the actual tailoring begin. The canvas inter-lining and chest piece are hand-padded to establish the foundation of the garment.
Soft structured tailoring ensures the garment stays in perfect shape for the rest of its life. After the pockets have been made the lapels are established and the sleeves inserted. The forward fitting then takes place.
By the advance fitting, some 5-6 weeks of highly skilled labour have elapsed. Now the suit is nearly ready, but a final check is vital to ensure perfection. It is now that all the tiny stitches come together in a dashing picture of sartorial elegance. When the client returns to collect the suit, it is tried on for final approval. We enjoy our record of total customer satisfaction which we cherish and aim to maintain.
The Process
An investment in time
A beautifully tailored garment takes time. Time to get to know you: your physique, your busy life, your tastes and preferences. Time for fittings, for sourcing the best fabrics, for training younger hands. Time to get everything just right, so that when you finally put the finished garment on, you never want to take it off.
As a Martin Tailors client, you’ll benefit from the knowledge of a team that’s dedicated to achieving that result for you. First you’ll speak to one of our client managers who will introduce you to the different bespoke styles and fabrics you could choose. Then you’ll be matched with one of our tailors.
A wealth of choices
Their experience means that as well as taking up to 20 individual measurements, they’ll assess your posture and look to accentuate your best features. Their ability to continue thinking in three dimensions means that when they cut your cloth, they will make subtle adjustments to the fit and hang that, at this point, only they can see.
From fitting to finish
Once these decisions are made, the fabric panels are handed over to the tailor specialising in your garment, be it trousers, waistcoat, skirt or coat. They will roughly stitch the pieces together so that at your first fitting the cutter can see how well the garment will work on you: how it will fit, how it will hang, how it will move.
Adjustments are made and a second cut planned, where the garment will be closer to what you might expect to see. There may be the need for a few more errands on your garment here and there , but generally we’re then able to take your outfit to the finishing stage. As many as 80 hours are dedicated to each garment over a period of 5-6weeks, after which you’ll receive your bespoke Martin Tailors commission.
Conversations about fabrics, linings and other details can be as wide-ranging or as simple as you like. Many clients enjoy making their garments uniquely suited to their lifestyle, with hidden pockets for a cigar, phone, loose change or even an iPad.
Tailoring
All Martin Tailors suits are measured and made specifically to fit one individual.The jacket alone will undergo 145 different sewing processes; being carefully pressed between each one to create a suit you will be proud to wear.
Our tailors are experienced not only in taking the correct measurements but also interpreting their effect ensuring our suits not only fir but also flatter your body shape.
Prices
Our prices are determined purely by the fabric you choose.
All our quoted prices include contrasting linings and VAT,there are no hidden extras save for a few exclusives.
Semi-Bespoke suit-you can expect a turn around time is 4 weeks
Bespoke-Includes a much higher level of personalization and as a result turn around time is much longer as we aim to deliver your suit in 5-6 weeks.
Any subsequent suits will require fewer fitting and be available in a considerably shorter duration.
Suit Styles
We believe that the silhouette or ‘cut’ of a suit is an absolutely crucial factor in creating an elegant suit that will leave an impression. A good silhouette is about balance.
Our cut has been developed and improved over several years to create a flattering appearance whilst still adhering to the general principles of a traditionally tailored suit. Going as far as adding a slight curve at the waist, designed to make you look slimmer.
The raised buttoning position and slightly narrowed lapels are typical of a Martin Tailored suit. These features help to draw attention to the chest, creating a more masculine profile.
It is important to remember however, that these suits are made personally to fit each client, so it’s up to you whether the curve at the jacket waist is subtle or more aggressive. Use our guidance, but in the end, make the suit your own.
CONSTRUCTION
Weight
In selecting the suit weight it is important to know whether it is to be worn in the summer, winter or if it will be used all year round.In the UK the weight of a fabric is measured in ounces per square yard which is the criteria we’ve adopted.
6.5oz – 9.5oz Summer weight
10oz – 12oz Medium weight or all year round weight
13oz & above Winter weight
Everyone feels the cold in different ways and we all work in rooms of varying temperature so the above figures can only be used as a rough guide.
What is also worth bearing in mind are the different properties associated with these weights.
If you want a suit to maintain its shape and drape well it is advisable to choose a heavier fabric.
Heavier fabrics also crease less because the sheer weight of the fabric pulls the creases out and returns the suit to its original shape.
Being thicker, heavier weight fabrics are also less susceptible to abrasion and wear and tear of all kinds, consequently they are more durable.
Lightweight fabrics are much cooler to wear but also more comfortable because the whole suit weighs less making you feel less ‘tied up’.
Content
We believe in giving you choices of the best fabrics and weave.All our fabrics are English milled and made from natural fibres.The fabric selected will effect the suits durability and performance and it’s feel or handle.
Wool fabrics become more expensive the finer they are and the silkier they feel.They tend to have a rich-nice looking lustre or sheen to them.Adding cashmere,sable silver mink or viscose to it.
The Martin Tailors Bespoke Experience
As Hamlet never said: ‘To buy or to bespeak? That is the question.’ It is an existential question worth pondering, and one that is answered as much by the heart as the head.
Bespoke tailoring is about more than clothes: it is an entire culture of which the best garments that money can buy and the human hand can make are the tangible product.
And on the individual level it is a habit that soon becomes an addiction.
There are of course practical benefits to having a suit made for you and for you alone: it will be as individual as you are, there will be no compromises on fit, everything will be exactly as you want it.
A visit to Martin Tailors is accompanied by a sense of occasion, after all the conception of a new garment is an important business, but an enjoyable one too. The inspection of cloths and linings; the selection of trimmings and the discussion of styles all act as an amuse bouche stimulating the sense of pleasurable anticipation. Compared to buying a ready-to- wear suit, bespoke tailoring offers choice, think of it like moving from black and white television with three channels to the HD multichannel, multicolour, on-demand 24-hour banquet of entertainment available today.
Again, there are of course practical benefits to having a suit made for you and for you alone: it will be as individual as you are, there will be no compromises on fit, everything will be exactly as you want it. While taking measurements, the cutter will assess your physique; optimising its benefits and concealing its flaws. Pockets will be where you want them and in dimensions to accommodate exactly what you want to put in them. For the frequent traveller a cloth that holds its shape might be recommended; for the outdoorsman a stout tweed; for summer flaneur linens in all colours of the spectrum… that’s another thing about tailoring, it opens the eyes to a world of possibility: professional and social engagements are transformed into sartorial opportunities.
It is hard to be unimpressed by the miracle of tailoring: how a set of figures read off a measuring tape and translated into a paper pattern, becomes something that almost lives – a second skin in which to feel supremely comfortable. And what is more, it is possible to see this miracle taking place over the course of the tailoring and fitting. The first seemingly rough hewn pieces of cloth and canvas held together with large white stitches take on a refinement over the weeks as minute alterations are made here and there: so that checks match perfectly, the back and front of the coat are balanced, the break of the trousers on the shoes is calculated and such questions as to width of lapel, depth of pocket flap and the inclusion or otherwise of brace buttons or turn-ups are answered. It is a collaborative process, cutter using his or her eye and experience to interpret the wishes and requirements of the customer.
And then the final movement comes when the gestation is at an end and the suit is born, a source of pride, pleasure and the ineffable sense of well being that knowing oneself to be impeccably dressed bestows. A bespoke suit, will, if cared for properly, remain a faithful companion throughout life; and as subsequent generations will have the pleasure of discovering, throughout the lives of those who come after you.